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  - $1.99 for 1 Build your own arcade cab CD  - Click Here for Full Description!

I cut out the 2 base, and 2 side pieces on the first day with a circular saw, and finishing blade. I used 3/4" finish grade Maple plywood. $40 a sheet, but weighs MUCH MUCH less than MDF, is a lot easier to work with in big pieces becuase it doesn't spray dust all over the place, won't warp, etc...etc...

After cutting out the base and side panels, I use the router from hell, and a 1/16" slot cutting bit I got from coastal (online) for all of the t-molding to fit. This is by far the easiest time to do this, no matter how much it may suck. 07/30/04

First ledger in place. I'm using garden stakes for the ledgers because they're VERY cheap compared to anything else (around $.65 per 4-6' stake). I raised the base piece up 1.5" to allow for the casters. Used liquid nails and 1 1/4" drywall screws to hold the ledger to the side, no screw holes showing on the outside using this method. 07/31/04

Got the 4 first pieces cut and together. I'm cutting all of these individual pieces AS I NEED THEM instead of all at once, since things DO vary as you go. For example, my 3/4" plywood was actually 11/16" making the first 2 pieces 1/8" off and I had to re-cut. This is also one of my first experiences trying to cut 22.5 and 45 degree angles lengthwise on plywood, what a pain in the ass.

07/31/04

 

Here are a couple shots of how I attached the four casters to the bottom. Drilled holes with a 3/4" spade bit to start the router, then routed out an area for the wheels to sit. The reason for the routing is so that the cab barely sits above the floor, and to keep the overall height of the cab down. The reason for the 2*4's is that the MDF would NOT support the cab weight, even WITHOUT being routed out. The 2*4's are attached to the sides with liquid nails and screwed ledgers.

08/01/04